First capital Chillicothe offers renewed charm amid the historic buildings

CHILLICOTHE, Ohio – Before Columbus, there was Chillicothe – the birthplace of Ohio and the state’s first capital.

This is where, in 1802, delegates met to draft a constitution for the new state and choose its name. And where Ohio government was headquartered from 1803 to 1810 and again from 1812 to 1816, when the capital moved to Columbus.

Today, Columbus has a population of more than 900,000, while Chillicothe has just over 22,000 residents.

But what it lacks in size it makes up for in charm, including a downtown undergoing substantial revitalization, with restored historic buildings and an increasing number of restaurants and shops.

Chillicothe, about 45 miles south of Columbus, is expected to benefit from the recent naming of several Ohio locations to the UNESCO World Heritage List, a recognition of their universal cultural value. The designation includes eight ancient Native American earthworks in southern Ohio, including five near Chillicothe, all part of Hopewell Culture National Historical Park.

A recent study by Ohio University found that communities near the World Heritage sites could see visitation double (or more) because of the international recognition.

Melody Young, executive director of the Ross-Chillicothe Convention and Visitors Bureau, said the community has been preparing for years for the influx of visitors. “We need to make sure people feel welcome when they come,” she said.

Among the initiatives: improving signage and wayfinding throughout the community; adding multiple languages to the bureau’s website and mobile app; and educating employees in the hospitality industry about World Heritage status and what it means.

Whether you’re headed to southern Ohio to learn more about the state’s Native American history or just looking for a lesson in small-town charm, here’s what you need to know about Chillicothe:

Downtown on the rise

The restoration in 2015 of the historic Carlisle Building, severely damaged during a fire a decade earlier, spurred downtown’s revitalization. The building is owned by Adena Health System, and occupies a prime downtown spot across from the gorgeous Ross County Courthouse. Apartments on the upper floors house medical residents. “These future doctors needed something to do,” said Young. “They needed places to eat.”

Investors and new small-business owners have largely filled the void.

Despite ongoing progress, downtown’s transformation is still a work in process, said Bill Hirsch, long-time owner of the Atwood House Bed and Breakfast. “We need more restaurants,” he said. “We need a downtown hotel.”

Both are possibilities, said Young.

Top attractions

In addition to Hopewell Culture National Historical Park, history buffs will want to check out Adena Mansion and Gardens, the hilltop estate of Ohio founding father Thomas Worthington, a former governor and U.S. senator. The house is one of only three still standing designed by Benjamin Henry Latrobe, architect of the U.S. Capitol. Visitors have access to the house, gardens, numerous outbuildings as well as a museum about early 19th century life in Ohio. For more: adenamansion.com

Also: “Tecumseh!” the outdoor drama, celebrated its 52nd anniversary this summer, on stage at the Sugarloaf Mountain Amphitheater just north of town. The production, which recounts the life of the legendary Shawnee chief who fought European settlement in the region, returns to the stage in 2024 from June 14 through Sept. 1. On stage in October: “The Frankenstein Experience at Haunted Mountain.” For details: tecumsehdrama.com

Also nearby: Great Seal State Park, Tar Hollow State Park, Bainbridge Fall Festival.

Where to stay

When visiting a historic town, I always prefer to stay in an historic place. Two bed and breakfasts in town – the Atwood House and the Willis-James – offer well-appointed rooms and terrific morning meals in 19th-century homes. See atwoodhousebandb.com and thewillisjames.com.

Where to dine

Aside from my terrific breakfast at the Atwood House, I ate just one meal in town — tasty barbecue and sides at the Old Canal Smoke House, a downtown Chillicothe favorite since 2004. Other recommended options: The Pour House, serving burgers, flatbread pizzas and other fare in a stylish historic building with a rooftop terrace; Bell Farms, serving barbecue and homestyle meals in a small space on E. Water Street; and Paper City Coffee, serving breakfast, lunch and caffeinated beverages, plus cocktails on select evenings.

Speaking of cocktails: Don’t miss Steiner’s Speakeasy, where owner Tara Gillum has been mixing creative concoctions since 2014. Among her creations: a martini made with housemade pickle brine and another with beet juice. Her margaritas won a national competition in 2021 and are not to be missed.

Also

The historic Majestic Theatre, circa 1853, offers live performances on select evenings.

Shopping: I appreciate a downtown that has shops that stay open into the evening. Among my stops on a recent Thursday night stroll through downtown: The History Store, with art, books, historical dioramas and other interesting items; Pop Culture Toys and Collectibles; and Grandpa Joe’s Candy Shop.

More information: visitchillicotheohio.com