Dear Tom and Ray:
My brother-in-law, who lives the next state over, has a 2007 Toyota Corolla. His trunk no longer opens. He lives frugally, so it would really be good if the two of us could find the root cause and fix it. We met halfway between our houses at an ice-cream shop parking lot, and pried the back seat forward. Then I crawled into the trunk to assess what I could. The key turns, and a wire strut looks like it moves. There is a plastic lever with the image of a car and trunk opening, which I thought would save us. No luck. I pulled it down, but nothing happened or clicked. Something is just not hooked up right, and we don’t know what it is or why. As we were experiencing a heat wave at the time, I did not spend too much more time poking around in the trunk. What do you suggest we do next? — Eric
RAY: I’d wait for winter, Eric. It’s a lot cooler in the trunk that time of year.
TOM: Sounds like the latch is broken. You have two mechanisms that are supposed to make the latch disengage (the key, and the emergency release lever inside the trunk). Neither one actuated the latch. So it’s probably the latch itself.
RAY: So you should try to unlatch the thing, manually, from the inside. I don’t have a mental map of an ‘07 Corolla trunk latch, but what you want to do is try to flip the latch claw with a screwdriver so it releases its hold on the U-bolt that’s holding the trunk lid closed.
TOM: We often have this problem with hood release latches. They rust out, or the cable breaks or sticks. We get underneath and release the latch with a screwdriver so we can repair the thing. Of course, hood latches are easier to get at from the grille or through the engine compartment, but it’s the same principle.
RAY: So you need to get in there with a bright light, and see if you can maneuver the latch mechanism with the right size screwdriver and get it to release.
TOM: It’d be helpful if you could see one that works properly first. So next time you see an ‘07 Corolla, ask the driver if he can lock you in his trunk for a while. Bring an oxygen tank. And pack a lunch, in case you’re in there for a while.
RAY: If you’re unable to release the latch with a screwdriver, then you have to either try to unbolt the latch from the inside and remove it, or do a “Law and Order” on it.
TOM: That’s a crowbar, Eric. But that’ll damage the trunk lid, and the fascia.
RAY: But ultimately, you’ll probably have to remove the latch and either fix or replace it. It’s just easier to do when the trunk is open and you have access to helpful accessories, like light and air. Good luck.
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BUSTING A MYTH ABOUT PUMPING THE BRAKES
Dear Tom and Ray:
Please settle a disagreement I’m having with my wife. I told her that we were taught never to pump the brakes on snow or ice if the vehicle has anti-lock brakes. She claims that the MythBusters are saying that it’s safe and effective. Help! — Phil
TOM: She’s wrong, Phil. So enjoy this rare opportunity to gloat.
RAY: The reason you pumped the brakes in the days before anti-lock braking systems is to try to prevent your wheels from locking up and skidding. Once a tire is skidding (i.e., sliding along the ground and no longer sticking to it), you lose the ability to steer the car.
TOM: You probably can figure out for yourself how that could cause trouble in certain situations.
RAY: The ABS is designed to pump the brakes for you — and to pump them better, faster and more accurately than any human ever could do it.
TOM: The ABS is able to constantly read the speed of each wheel. If it detects that one wheel is going much slower than the others, it concludes that the wheel is skidding, and it releases the brake on that wheel only, until that wheel stops skidding. Then it reapplies the brake on that wheel.
RAY: And it does this for every wheel individually — applying and releasing the brakes when necessary — in milliseconds, over and over, until the car is stopped.
TOM: That allows you to keep steering the car during a panic stop, even on ice and snow.
RAY: It doesn’t necessarily make you stop any faster, but it does allow you to keep the car pointed in a straight line, or steer around something if you need to.
TOM: And since the ABS is already pumping the brakes for you, there’s no need to for you to do any pumping. The proper procedure, with ABS, is to step on the brake pedal, hold your foot there until the car is stopped, and keep steering.
RAY: If the ABS engages, you’ll feel a rumbling in the pedal. Don’t worry about it. That’s the ABS pump quickly applying and releasing individual brakes. Just keep your foot planted and steer the car.
TOM: And under no circumstances should you look over at your wife during an emergency stop and say, “See, hon, I told you I was right.”
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Bumps and potholes do more than merely annoy drivers. Find out what, and how you can ease the pain, by ordering Tom and Ray’s pamphlet “Ten Ways You May Be Ruining Your Car Without Even Knowing It!” Send $4.75 (check or money order) to Ruin, P.O. Box 536475, Orlando, FL 32853-6475.
Get more Click and Clack in their new book, “Ask Click and Clack: Answers from Car Talk.” Got a question about cars? Write to Click and Clack in care of this newspaper, or email them by visiting the Car Talk website at www.cartalk.com.
(c) 2014 by Tom and Ray Magliozzi and Doug Berman
Distributed by King Features Syndicate, Inc.