Pets

Early in their training, veterinarians are taught to recognize the “normal” animal well before any introduction to animal disease. This may seem like an oversimplification of a comprehensive, four year education, but identifying what is normal teaches veterinarians to become tuned in to diagnosing abnormalities for patients that cannot speak for themselves.

Last week I attended a lecture at a conference discussing common problems seen in ferrets. The speaker began by saying some of the medial conditions seen in ferrets were similar to what we see in dogs and cats. As a matter of fact, we use a lot of the same medications for ferrets. However, ferrets do have their own unique problems and the majority of the lecture focused on one of them — adrenal gland disease.

When most owners think of emergencies related to their pet, they envision their pet being hit by a car, being attacked by a large dog or wild animal, having seizures or ingesting a toxin. These scenarios are easy to recognize as true emergencies. However, emergencies that especially concern veterinarians are those that are not so obvious, and the owners may not realize their pet needs medical attention immediately. There is no better example of this than glaucoma.

Ear mites are a common parasite of cat and dog ears. They are far more common in cats than in dogs. Especially cats that have access to the outdoors, and therefore other cats. Kittens (and puppies) are much more likely to have ear mites than older cats or dogs.

By Dorothy MinerIt’s Cujo! No, it’s 10-pound Fluffy, growling in mama’s lap. Small Dog Syndrome is what happens when small dogs are allowed to become tiny terrors — snarling and snapping whenever they feel their rights have been infringed upon.Small dogs are often allowed to get away with behaviors we would never tolerate in their larger cousins. Some people think it’s cute when Fluffy curls his lip and takes a snap. After all — how much damage could a tiny dog do? (Plenty.) Dogs with Small Dog Syndrome have very high self esteem, often aided by the way they are raised. The causes are many. Little dogs are cute and owners sometimes fail to realize how big a problem they have until their pets are truly nasty. Here are some things to remember if you want to have a pleasant little pet.• They may be tiny, but they’re dogs. They aren’t fashion accessories or little folks in furry costumes. • Small dogs need as much training and socialization as any other dog. Puppy kindergarten and basic obedience training are vital. If you worry about its physical safety in a class, talk to the instructors to see how they handle the needs of the tiny dog in class.• A dog sitting in your lap must not be allowed to growl or snap at people. If that happens, stand up abruptly and put the dog on the floor. Allowing him to remain in your lap reinforces the bad behavior. • Small dogs must learn to walk. Leash training isn’t easy, but picking up your pooch and carrying it instead of teaching good leash manners isn’t the solution.• We enjoy having our dogs sit in our laps, but we must remain in control. Don’t allow him to run all over you, climb up to your shoulder or the top of the chair. This leads to an elevated sense of rank. If your dog sleeps on your bed, teach him to stay in one spot. If he snarls or snaps when you move or touch him, whether he’s on your lap or on your bed, put him on the floor.• Small dogs can be picky eaters, but don’t hand-feed him and don’t feed him from your plate or fork. This puts the dog in the alpha position. Find an appropriate diet and feed him from a bowl on the floor. • Handle him properly. Don’t swoop down and abruptly scoop him up. Let him know you are there and raise him gently. A startled dog may bite.• Monitor children’s interactions with the dog. Young children shouldn’t pick him up or carry him without close supervision. Tiny dogs can be injured easily. If a youngster handles him like a toy or doll, a bite is likely.• Small dogs can and must be housetrained. Just because the size of the puddle or pile is tiny, it is still unsanitary. A dog urinating in the house as a marking behavior is telling everybody he owns the place.If you are already living with a dinky dictator, there are steps you can take to correct the situation. Review his obedience training. Revoke his bed privileges; allowing him to sleep on your bed puts him on equal footing with you. Give him his own sleeping spot in your bedroom, but keep him off your bed. Allow him in your lap by invitation only. Put him on the floor at any sign of problems like barking, lip curling, growling or snapping. Don’t allow any mouthing, even in play; and don’t permit behavior you wouldn’t want to see in a large dog. If your dog is an ankle-biter, snap on his leash and keep him under control in situations where this behavior is likely to occur. Provide for all his needs, but have him do something in return. Have him sit or lie down before you put his food on the floor or before you invite him onto your lap. Have him wait patiently while you get his leash for a walk. Don’t let him run out the door before you. If he wants to be petted or to play, have him do something for you first — a Sit or Down, or even a trick. Put yourself back in control.The world is full of perfectly wonderful little dogs that are sociable and friendly. Expecting the same behavior from your little guy that you would expect from a large dog is the key. Dorothy Miner is a long-time dog obedience and tracking instructor and judge of canine events. She contributes regular columns to several dog publications. She is currently a trainer at That Place for Pets (formerly Hollowell) and teaches weekly classes for the Allen Correctional Institution’s PETS Program.

From Dr. April ShattuckMost people know that chocolate is unsafe for pets but are surprised to find that grapes and raisins are also toxic. My infamous dog, Corky, reminded me of this important fact when he proceeded to steal and eat my oatmeal raisin cookie. Even though Corky is an obedience-trained dog, he fails to heed my advice on avoid eating the things that may kill him (as you may remember when he at six chicken wings). Ingestion of grapes and raisins has been associated with kidney failure in dogs, and possibly in cats and ferrets. The phenomenon was first identified by the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center in 1999. Both commercially available and home grown seedless or seeded grapes have been implicated, along with pressings from wineries. There have been no reports associating toxicity with cooked jellies or grape seed extract.Researchers have been unable to identify what in or on the grapes and raisins causes the kidney failure. Although dog owners and trainers have traditionally given grapes as treats to their pets with no ill effects, even a handful can be toxic, and potentially lethal. Possibilities include herbicides or pesticides on the grapes, fungus or mold contamination.Vomiting and diarrhea are often the first symptoms of grape or raisin toxicity, developing within a few hours of ingestion. After 24 hours, the pet will become lethargic, drink excessively, not eat and have abdominal pain. Without treatment, oliguric (little urine produced) or anuric (no urine produced) kidney failure will occur, at which point response to treatment is very poor. If your pet has eaten grapes or raisins, this is an EMERGENCY and you should contact your veterinarian or an emergency facility immediately. Induce vomiting with hydrogen peroxide if the ingestion occurred within two hours. If it has been longer than two hours or you are unsure when your pet may have eaten the grapes or raisins, your veterinarian may administer activated charcoal orally to absorb the toxins and start intravenous fluids. Intravenous fluids are critical in supporting the kidneys while they recover from the toxicity.Treatment may be required for a couple of days to several weeks. During which, your veterinarian will monitor blood kidney values and urine production daily. If little to no urine is being produced, your pet may need to be placed on dialysis at a specialty hospital. Unfortunately, once the kidneys shut down and stop producing urine, all other body systems follow suit, leading to death.The best treatment, as always, is prevention. As dogs, and some cats, will eat almost anything, keep raisins and grapes out of reach of your pet. Make sure that all family members and guests are aware of the toxic capability of grapes and raisins, as well as other foods such as chocolate, onions, garlic, macadamia nuts and sugar free treats containing xylitol. Invest in an emergency first-aid kit for your pet, including a bottle of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide to induce vomiting. Always contact your veterinarian first before administering the hydrogen peroxide. Some items may be too dangerous for your pet to vomit up or it may have been too long since the ingestion. Give a capful (about a teaspoon) of the hydrogen peroxide to a small dog or cat and around 2 tablespoons to a larger dog. A turkey baster, bulb syringe or medical syringe is helpful to administer the peroxide. NOTE: Trap your pet in a small area to avoid having to chase your pet and having to clean vomit from your carpet.Wait patiently and quietly while your pet vomits. Most pets will vomit shortly after administration, but it may take up to five minutes. Inspect the vomit for the grapes and raisins and remove it immediately so your pet doesn't try to re-ingest the food. Repeat the hydrogen peroxide if nothing substantial comes up.Thankfully, Corky has had no ill effects from his tasty encounter. He was given hydrogen peroxide 15 minutes after he ate the cookie. Approximately 10 raisins were found in his vomit, a potentially deadly amount for a dog of his size. Fluids were given under the skin and evaluation of his blood kidney values were normal 48 hours later. Corky will have the opportunity to do more mischievous behavior in the future, and thus, be a constant source of article ideas for me. Lucky for Corky, his “mom” is a veterinarian.

Dr. Adam Ferguson“Who on earth told you that lamb and rice is a hypoallergenic diet?!!” screamed the irate veterinarian.“The kid at the pet store,” replied the sheepish client.“I see,” replied the veterinarian, calming down just a notch or two. “Well, I apologize. I am certain that he mentioned how important it is to make sure nothing else goes in Chloe’s mouth while feeding her new diet. Such as no treats or table scraps. No pills or vitamins hidden in cheese or peanut butter. Her monthly heartworm pill should be a topical drop rather than a flavored pill. I am certain he mentioned these tidbits, right?”“Um, no ... he didn’t mention those things. But he did send us home with some mite medicine for her ears. She’s been digging at those ears something terrible, Doc. So that bright young man, he told us she likely had a bout of ear mites. We’ve been treating her twice a day for the last week. We haven’t seen any improvement yet. Other than the fact that she stands for us a little better when we put the mite medicine in than she did last week. But that might be because we hold that strip of jerky in her mouth while we do it now.”The color rose in the veterinarian’s neck and began to flood his head. The vessels near his temple were throbbing. “Count backwards from ten,” he thought. “In Spanish.”As the near-boiling point was brought back to a simmer, he cautiously asked if the young man full of wisdom beyond his years had suggested a timeline within which the Scratchenlick’s should notice some improvement in Chloe. “Oh, yes,” began Mr. Scratchenlick. “He said she would be scratching less by the end of the first bag of food. We’re not seeing that yet, but we’re only halfway through. You won’t believe how much her stool has improved in just the first week, Doc!”Knowing that in many cases dogs on a hypoallergenic diet will see improvements in their stool, the veterinarian took the bait and asked: “Was Chloe’s stool abnormal to begin with?”“Oh heaven’s no. Not until we started that there bag of lamb and rice. Then she got as loose as chocolate pudding. But she’s really firmed back up in the last few days, so that’s a positive, right?”That’s right. They had not fixed the dog’s scratching or digging at her ears. They did, however, get her stool back to where it had began, which was normal. With a small detour through loosy-goosiness on the way. “That’s a positive,” he again thought to himself. “Mr. Scratchenlick: do you remember when I first mentioned the possibility of Chloe having a food allergy?” asked the veterinarian. “Well, sure I do,” began the re-energized client. “You said that dogs that bother their ears or scoot on their rears likely have a food allergy.”“That’s right!” shouted the veterinarian, seeing a glimmer of hope. “Ears and rears are very often symptoms of food allergy. But I mentioned other allergies, such as atopy, which could cause similar signs.”“I also mentioned the terms ‘novel protein’ and ‘hydrolyzed diet.’ And I discussed the importance of eliminating all other food-type items from Chloe’s daily routine prior to introducing one of these very expensive prescription diets. Does any of this ring a bell?”“Absolutely, Doc!” bolted Mr. Scratchenlick. “I shared what you said with Jack down at the pet store. He knew exactly what you were talking about. He sure is a bright kid. Said he’s been working at the pet store since he got his driver’s license two years ago. I think he knows darn near everything there is to know about dogs.”Patiently waiting for it, the veterinarian let Mr. Scratchenlick proceed.“He knew right away that ‘hydrolyzed diet’ meant a canned food. He saw right through that medical jargon you spent so many years learning. Clearly ‘hydro’ meant ‘water’. Honestly Doc ... why can’t you just say what you mean?”Now enjoying the humor of the situation, the veterinarian mustered up the courage to ask: “Then what, pray tell, did Jack come up with for ‘novel protein,’ Mr. Scratchenlick?”“Now that was a little more difficult, Doc. But Jack used all of the clues; kind of like those detectives you see on TV. He knew that ‘novel’ meant ‘new’ and not ‘book.’ We thought you were trying to throw us off the trail with that one. And ‘protein’ simply meant one of them high-performance diets.”“Since she had already been on two different really-high-performance diets with Alpo and Dad’s, we moved her right on up to Ol’ Roy. You should see her run around on that stuff. Like somebody lit a fire under her rear.”Thinking about the diarrhea that had begun with the feeding of the new food, the veterinarian chuckled to himself about how Chloe probably was running around like there was a fire under her rear. “That sure is some pretty potent protein, Doc. I don’t know why you had to speak in code like that, but I sure am glad that Jack could decipher your secret language. That old Chloe is going to be good as new once we get her over the scooting and scratching and digging at those ears! Now why didn’t you see those mites that Jack just knows are in those ears when you looked in her ears, Doc?” Clearly he should have spent more time at the pet store when he was wasting all those years learning that medical jargon.Dr. Adam Ferguson is co-owner of Baker Animal Hospital in Cridersville. Please visit your veterinarian for a thorough explanation of allergies in your pet.

Dr. Bonnie Jones The start of every veterinary examination should include a commitment to conduct a thorough “nose to tail” inspection of the patient. This comprehensive approach prevents overlooking subtle problems besides the obvious current complaint. The end point of every one of my examinations is literally the pet's “endpoint,” the tail and butt area. (Yes, I really am going to teach you about your pet's anal area!)What prompts me to broach this subject is an up-tick in malignant tumors associated with the anal glands diagnosed by veterinarians today. The greatest concern with these tumors is they are commonly overlooked by pet owners because they begin as inwardly growing tumors that are not apparent unless you know where to look for them. Veterinarians are trained to visualize and palpate the area around the anus called the “perineum,” to identify multiple abnormalities, including, but not limited to tumors.Veterinary medicine requires an understanding of normal anatomy before “abnormals” or disease may be diagnosed. Pet owners, too, can become skilled at recognizing their pet's “normals” by conducting a brief daily exam of their pets. Once you are familiar with your pet's body, recognizing a problem early, when it is more treatable, becomes an easier task.Simply lift your pet's tail daily and look for the following around the anus that may indicate a problem: raised, fleshy or black skin growths; grey discoloration of the anus; red or blister-like lesions next to the bottom of the anus, inflamed cracks or “tracts” extending from the anus; fecal soiling; matted hair; and tapeworm segments (egg packets that look like rice or sesame seeds). See your veterinarian immediately if you note any of the above.Next, use your fingers to press on your pet's perianal skin to feel for soft or hard bumps representing tumors lurking under the skin. While the majority of obvious perianal skin tumors diagnosed by sight are benign, malignant tumors usually require greater “hands-on” attention to detect them. Ask your veterinarian to show you how to examine this area at your pet's next visit.By far, the most common perianal problem addressed by veterinarians is “full” anal glands that cause cats and dogs to do what I call “the boot-scootin' boogie.” You've seen it before ... your pet sits his bottom squarely on your most valued flooring, then proceeds to drag or scoot it in a linear fashion. Some pets will do a twirling routine followed by a quick lick or sniff of their butt afterward ... yuck!Essentially, what your pet is doing is expressing anal gland secretions, a musky, foul-smelling liquid or paste, that accumulates in the small glands inside the rectum at 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock positions. Dogs and cats should “pump” their tails after bowel movements to express this material on to their stool. It's a personal “signature,” if you will, and their way of telling other pets that “Buffy” or “Tiger” was here.When pets do not efficiently empty these glands, often because they are over-weight, small in stature, or have short or no tails, this substance accumulates in the glands. Over time the build-up becomes irritating, prompting the “boot-scootin' boogie.” Heed your pet's signal and see your veterinarian as soon at this butt dance begins to prevent the formation of a painful, anal gland abscess.Another increasingly common anal problem is infection of the anal skin secondary to allergies, usually to the pet's own food. One might assume that the pet needs frequent anal gland expression associated with a persistent “butt itch,” when in reality Fido has a yeast skin infection of the anus that is really uncomfortable. Your veterinarian will recommend a food trial, along with treatment of the infection, to eliminate repeat episodes.The importance of regular examinations of your pet's bottom cannot be over-emphasized. Besides identifying tumors, full anal glands, and allergic disease, you could identify an intestinal parasite or diarrhea problem for your pet just by looking at the area daily. Matted rectal hair and fecal soiling is not only unhygienic and unsightly, but also very uncomfortable for your pet. By finding your pet's perianal problem, especially tapeworms and infectious diarrheas promptly, you will protect your family members' health as well.You will never be the “butt” of any joke if you conduct a daily “nose to tail” examination of your pet. Your health and that of your pet depend on it.Dr. Bonnie Jones is co-owner of Delphos Animal Hospital which she operates with her husband, John H. Jones, DVM . She was valedictorian and Outstanding Senior Clinician of The Ohio State University College of Veterinary Medicine Class of 1985. Dr. Bonnie dedicates this column to “Rocky” Lambert-Messer and “Riley” Michel, beloved pets of very special pet owners.

By Dr. Kathleen BabbittOne of my favorite things to do, warm or cold, is to go for a walk. I tend to use the Heritage Park paved trail and the Rotary River Walk for these walks. I like the fact that is paved and has beautiful scenery. The thing that disturbs me the most is the amount of poop left behind by other dog owners. Not only is this just gross but it's also a health hazard to other dogs and humans.The disgusting nature of letting your dog go just wherever and not cleaning up after him has resulted in many municipalities in banning dogs from walking trails, etc. The eyesore, the smell and the cost of having someone else clean it up becomes overwhelming for the small staffs of most of our parks. So it is easier to just ban dogs. This is unfortunate because our dogs really like exercise, and it punishes us who do pick up our dog's waste. It is a simple as carrying a few bags with you. When your dog defecates, please pick it up, carry it with you, and drop it off at the next wastebasket. Heritage Park and the other parks in that district even provide you with the bags. Another reason to not be lazy is the risk of zoonotic disease. Zoonotic diseases are those diseases that can be passed from animal to man and man to animal. The most concerning is the intestinal parasite Toxocara canis, or the canine roundworm. A dog may become infected with this parasite in one of four ways:1. Ingesting infective eggs from contaminated soil.2. Nursing from an infected mother dog.3. Consuming a prey animal that is infected, usually a rodent.4. During embryonic development when an infected mother dog is pregnant. This is the most common way a dog is infected.To understand how this parasite moves from dog to human we must understand its life cycle first. 1. Eggs are passed when the host defecates. The eggs stay in the environment for about a month. During that time, they develop into infective second-stage larva. The eggs are not infective until they have undergone this development, which means fresh poop is not a problem but soil that has been contaminated with infective feces is dangerous. Eggs can remain in the soil for months to years despite freezing, thawing, drought, etc. 2. The infective egg can now be picked up by a dog or another animal. This usually happens with normal exposure to the infective soil. The eggs then hatch into small worms in the intestines that burrow out of the intestine and become cysts in other body tissues. If the host is a dog, the life cycle proceeds. If not, the cysts remain in the tissues.3. The cyst can remain in the dog for years. When the timing is right they develop, travel to the lungs, get coughed up, swallowed, and enter into the intestines for the second time in their life. If the host is pregnant they instead travel to the fetus and then travel to the puppies' lungs to infect the puppy.If the host is nursing, the larva migrate to the mammary glands and infect the puppies while nursing.4. Once in the intestine, the worms mature and mate. The first eggs are released about a week later. The entire life cycle takes about four to five weeks.Humans can become infected when they come in contact with the infective eggs. This occurs most often in children because of their poor handwashing skills. Humans are not a natural host for the worm, but it tries to complete its life cycle anyway. This results in “visceral larval migrans” in which the larvas migrate randomly throughout the body and eventually die, causing a massive inflammatory reaction. The eye is a common place for the larva to end up and can result in blindness. We can prevent this from happening in several ways. First, pick up the poop. Removing the feces right away prevents the spread of the eggs into the soil. All puppies and new dogs should be given a dewormer several times, and all dogs should be maintained on monthly parasite prevention. Most heartworm preventers control roundworm infections, which is why year-round use is a good idea. Also, teach your children good hygiene.So, please pick up after your dog. Let's keep our parks clean, open to dogs, and prevent our children from getting a terrible disease.Dr. Kathleen Babbitt is the owner of Lima Animal Hospital. She has six dogs that she likes to take to the park. She picks up a lot of poop.

Dr. Bonnie Jones “’Tis the Season” certainly rang true this year in our practice and our home. I don’t mean the season of giving, caring and being kind to others that comes with Christmas. I am referring to the seasonal veterinary emergencies that accompany a time of many distractions.This year seemed to have an abundance of the “my dog ate the Christmas chocolate ... ” phone calls. You can fill in the blank with any delectable chocolate treat I would have preferred to ingest instead of knowing my canine patients had done so. Along with numerous phone calls about chocolate intoxications, this year also brought the reminder that “tis the season” for pets to up their frequency of foreign body ingestions. Mix the introduction of holiday decorations and gifts strewn about with the bustle and distraction of pet owners at this time of year, and you have the perfect storm for foreign body ingestions by pets.This year’s unlucky foreign body patient was Boomer, the fun-loving Boxer that gorged on a reindeer decoration made of pipe cleaners and chocolate. After a couple days of binging and purging, abdominal X-rays warranted blood testing and exploratory surgery. While no obvious foreign material was found in Boomer’s intestines, he did experience an episode of acute kidney failure associated with his ingestion. Close monitoring, plenty of fluid therapy to jump start his kidneys, and antibiotics brought a timely recovery so Boomer could be home for Christmas.Many are the stories of feline family members scaling Christmas trees and batting about and breaking ornaments. I try to remind cat owners to place durable, less valued ornaments on the bottom of the tree and invest in a good tree stand. Once stolen from the tree, cats have great fun playing with ornaments and may inadvertently swallow parts of them. Not wanting to exclude pets from “the reason for the season,” many pet owners purchase and wrap gifts for their fur family to open on Christmas morning, which brings me to the real subject of this column. Choosing proper toys for pets can go a long way toward keeping them safe and preventing foreign body ingestions.The nature of dogs, especially large breeds, makes it difficult to provide them with enduring toys that are not harmful if ingested. Powerful canine jaws can exert close to 450 pounds of pressure. Not many toys will withstand that repeated abuse. Thus, I am a great fan of one-piece, indestructible chew toys that are large enough to prohibit swallowing. Hard rubber toys, such as Gumabones and Kongs, are my favorite and most recommended. Most Kong toys have a space to place food treats in or on them to make them more attractive. I recommend stuffing Kongs with canned dog food, peanut butter, or squeeze-cheese mixed with pieces of dental treats or dog kibble. Freeze this Kong delicacy overnight, and your dog will have a delightful treat to keep it busy for an extended period, especially when alone. Avoid dog toys constructed of hard vinyl, nylon or plastic, especially for aggressive chewers, as these materials are notorious for breaking teeth and causing injuries to the gums and lips. Livestock hooves and bones can do similar harm. Even round “soup bones” can be dangerous when they are swallowed whole or become lodged around the lower jaw.Pets given cloth toys, such as stuffed animals, should be carefully selected and monitored. Keep in mind that giving your pet cloth toys may teach it to chew on your cloth possessions such as rugs, socks, and underwear.Another product to avoid for dogs is rawhide. Even with close observation, this substance is often swallowed in large pieces, and invariably “grinds” its way through the intestines. Inflammation or obstruction of the intestines can be the end result. One of the saddest cases I have seen was a Pekingese that arrived at our office minutes after choking to death on a piece of rawhide stuck in the back of his throat.For our feline patients, I recommend the simplest of toys already in your home such as table tennis, foil or paper balls, laser lights, cardboard boxes, and paper bags. Avoid linear toys such as yarn or string, and be cautious with fishing pole toys. Control the rod yourself as you entice your cat to chase its “prey” without swallowing it or the string.Still not convinced about safe toys? Just ask Betsy Louise, our 8-month-old Welsh Corgi puppy, about hydrogen peroxide gastritis. I made her vomit after she snacked on my office rug the day after Christmas.Dr. Bonnie Jones co-owns Delphos Animal Hospital with her husband, Dr. John H. Jones. She was valedictorian and Outstanding Senior Clinician of The Ohio State University College of Veterinary Medicine Class of 1985.

Dr. Sara SmithTo follow up on my article about the most commonly asked questions regarding dogs, I couldn’t leave out our feline friends. I notice that while dogs mostly eat strange things, cats have strange behaviors that are difficult to explain. Hopefully I can help you decipher some of these oddities.Q: Why is my cat urinating outside of the litterbox?A: Inappropriate elimination (urinating or defecating outside the box) is a very common problem, and has several possible reasons. First of all, the majority of cats prefer unscented, clumping litter, and the box should be changed weekly and scooped daily. For multiple cat households, there should be one litterbox per cat plus one more. A box that is close to a noisy object, such as the furnace, may scare your cat. Make sure the box is large enough — at least 1.5 times the body length of your cat — or else you may find “presents” around the outside. Cats are solitary animals by nature, and may mark or spray because of stress with housemates, or visualizing other cats out a window. There are also many medical problems that can cause inappropriate elimination, such as idiopathic cystitis (stress induced bladder inflammation), bladder infections, bladder stones, kidney disease, diabetes, and hyperthyroidism, so before “diagnosing” your cat, make a trip to the veterinarian.Q: Why is my cat crying at night? I can’t sleep!A: This may depend on the age and health of your cat. Older cats may undergo behavior changes because of underlying illnesses, such as hyperthyroidism, which increases metabolism. Cognitive dysfunction is also a reality for some cats and dogs, as with humans, and many older cats need more stimulation with toys, treats and activity. There are treatment options for these conditions, and your veterinarian will determine the best course of action. Cats are nocturnal (more active at night), so a younger cat may vocalize due to boredom or hunger. Hiding treat toys around the house with some of your cat’s daily ration of food and providing more activities such as vertical places to jump and scratching posts may keep kitty occupied … and if nothing else, it may be time to introduce a new little kitten to keep him busy!Q: Why does my cat lick my hair or suck on my shirt like he is nursing? Yuck!A: “Wool sucking” behavior is a type of obsessive compulsive disorder in cats, and is more common in certain purebreds. Cats that are weaned early (before 4 weeks) of age may be more likely to have this behavior, although it has never been proven. The nursing-like action triggers a feeling of comfort in the brains of these cats. If your clothes are falling prey to wool sucking, distract your cat with favorite toys or treats. Some cats, however, need drug therapy to treat their OCD, so consult your veterinarian. Q: My cat’s belly looks like it’s dragging the ground. Is that just loose skin?A: Unfortunately, that flap is not just skin — it’s excess fat, and means that Fluffy is going to need to go on a diet! One of my coworkers referred to her cat’s abdominal pooch as “Buttercup and her baby.” After limiting her food and increasing her activity, she is now just “Buttercup” again!Q: How can I stop my cat from “counter surfing”?A: Some cats learn that the counter is a great place to find a snack or a drink from the faucet, and gives them a great view of the house. If this is bothersome to you, resist the urge to use physical punishment to banish kitty from the counter. Cats learn from their environment, so using an unpleasant deterrent that they don’t associate with their owners is best, such as covering the counter surface with double sided tape, foil or plastic wrap. Startling your cat by spraying a water bottle or shaking a can of coins are second line defenses, and scat mats (they emit small electric shocks when stepped on) should only be a last resort. Make sure your cat has plenty of appropriate vertical places to feel safe, and the counter may become less interesting.Q: What do I do with these stray cats or kittens?A: Alas, this is probably the most common question regarding cats that is fielded at our clinic. The local humane society and shelters do as much as they can, but there is very limited space for more cats at these places. That leaves care of unwanted cats to, well, the rest of us. If you cannot find homes for the kittens that have shown up around your house, and you have the means, bring them to your veterinarian to be spayed and neutered to keep the cat population from expanding.Dr. Sara Smith is an associate veterinarian at Delphos Animal Hospital.

Dr. Bonnie JonesAdopting a dog is an exciting time for pet owners. But, what do you do if that new bundle of fur has a skin disorder? Soon after entering a new home, all dogs should have a veterinary exam to begin immunizations, deworming and heartworm preventive medication. This visit also provides an opportunity for veterinarians to conduct a full wellness exam and to diagnose diseases, including skin disorders that may be contagious to humans. A primary health concern for dog owners is “mange,” or mite infestation of the skin. While there are multiple different mites pets may acquire, two types of mange are most common. These include demodectic mange or “demodecosis,” and sarcoptic mange, commonly referred to as “scabies.” Specific diagnosis of each of these infestations is made via microscopic examination of deep scrapings of multiple skin lesions on affected dogs.Demodecosis is also referred to as “puppy mange” or “red mange” because it is more commonly diagnosed in puppies and is associated with reddening of the skin. The typical presentation is a young puppy with hair thinning, especially on the forehead or extremities. This condition is generally not itchy, and when mild, does not require treatment. While demodecosis is usually localized, it can be generalized on the entire body and will be harder to eliminate when it affects the toes. Some short-haired dog breeds are over-represented with this disease, including Boston Terriers, Dobermans, Bulldogs and Pitbulls. It is important to note demodecosis is not contagious to other pets or to humans! The Demodex canis mite spends its entire life cycle on the dog. Why these “normal inhabitants of the skin” begin to proliferate by the thousands is not known, however, a genetic or immunologic abnormality is the most likely cause. If five or more areas of hair loss are diagnosed on a patient, the disease may be considered genetic and the dog should not be used for breeding. Treatment of demodecosis when warranted, varies from the use of topical products (rotenone ointments, benzoyl peroxide gels, amitraz dips) to oral anti-parasitic drugs (e.g. milbemycin). Your veterinarian will likely perform follow-up examinations to insure that your dog's demodecosis has entirely resolved. Since this is potentially a genetic and/or immune disorder, recurrences are possible during times of stress.Unlike demodectic mange, sarcoptic mange is contagious to other dogs and humans via direct contact, and will be intensely itchy! Greater than 50 percent of the dog's waking hours will be spent scratching due to irritation associated with the mites' feces. This mite, Sarcoptes scabiei, actually burrows under the skin but can live off the host in the environment for a few days. Scabies mites will reside in kennels, grooming shops and on pet bedding. There is not a breed predilection with this mite infestation, but dogs that travel to shows, stay in kennels, or live outdoors are more likely to encounter this mite.Lesions seen with scabies are most commonly found on ear edges, elbows and undersides of dogs, but may be anywhere on the body. While it is easy to find multiple cigar-shaped demodex mites in skin scrapings, locating the globoid sarcoptic mite is much more difficult. So much so, that scabies is usually diagnosed based on clinical appearance of the skin and response to treatment.The onset of symptoms with scabies is usually sudden, and not all dogs in a household will experience the same intensity of itching. The history for scabies patients often includes that the dog originated from a puppy mill or breeding kennel, traveled to dog shows, was exposed to straw, wood or mulch, or lives in an environment with scabies-infested squirrels or fox. Scabies may be treated either topically (selamectin, amitraz, lime sulfur dips), or orally (ivermectin). Because the source of scabies mites is often difficult to identify or eliminate, once cured, these patients should be placed on selamectin (Revolution), a monthly, topical heartworm preventive known to treat and control sarcoptic mites. The dog's environment should also be treated by disposing of contaminated bedding and cleaning all surfaces with 10 percent bleach solution repeatedly.Owners of dogs diagnosed with sarcoptic mange are themselves most likely to acquire a self-limiting scabies infection on exposed areas of skin such as the wrists, abdomen, and neck from handling the infested dog. Contact your physician for treatment advice if you think you might be experiencing a scabies infestation from your dog.Pets can harbor other skin diseases besides mange that are contagious to humans so please be certain to consult your veterinarian if your furry family member is itchy or has skin lesions.Dr. Bonnie Jones is co-owner of Delphos Animal Hospital. She was valedictorian and Outstanding Senior Clinician of The Ohio State University College of Veterinary Medicine Class of 1985.

By Dr. Kathleen BabbittHow far has behavioral medicine come in the past 10 years. I was probably one of the first class of veterinary students to get any type of behavioral training and education, and that it was not much. This field in the past 10 years has grown by leaps and bounds, and the research has allowed us to see how dogs and cats think. This has allowed us to come up with new training recommendations. At this point you are no longer the Alpha dog ruling by force but the benevolent leader in your house. We know now that the real key to a good dog or cat for that matter is what happens early on in their life. At a recent behavioral conference, we focused on how to make a good puppy. This is because a good puppy will be a good dog. The period in the dog's life that allows them to accept and acclimate to new ideas, people, other animals, etc., is what is termed the socialization period. For puppies it starts at about 6 weeks of age and depending on the breed is done by 12 to 14 weeks of age. This means that a puppy must be exposed to everything you want it to be accustomed to in life during these first and few several weeks. During the weeks of 6 to 8 a puppy is best off with its dam and its siblings. That is because during these two weeks they are learning how to socialize with other dogs. The best place to learn your early skills is with your mom and your siblings. Mom at this point is going to stop coddling the puppies and expect some manners. The siblings are going to be playful but are going to be able to let each other know when play gets too rough. It is best to leave a puppy with its mom and litter mates if possible at this stage. It is important, however, to go and see and interact with your puppy. This will allow you to get to know it and it to know you before you take it home. You can observe if you have the shy-wallflower dog, or the go-getter-into-everything dog. You can be prepared to take that bundle of joy home.Once you get your puppy home, you want to have it checked by your veterinarian within the first three days. This will allow your veterinarian to make sure it is healthy and on the correct vaccination schedule. After your visit you and your puppy need to get out on the town. It is recommended that you take your puppy out of the house at least five days a week. If you are doing a puppy socialization class you can back down to three other days per week. On these outings you want to expose your puppy to the pet store, other dogs, other animals, babies, babies in strollers, children, teenagers, strangers in hats, strangers in wheelchairs, strangers with umbrellas, concrete walkways, gravel walkways, hiking, etc. If you think your puppy may come in contact with something later in life get it exposed to it now.When taking your puppy out for these exposures make sure you are armed with a good leash and well-fitting collar (buckle is fine, puppies should not be on prong, pinch or choker collars), “high dollar” treats, and waste pick up bags. “High dollar” treats refers to a treat your puppy cannot resist. I have found that cheese, cooked chicken, cooked beef patties, and hot dog pieces all work well. You want to make these outings fun, and giving food and good praise does this for puppies. Have strangers stop and give your dog treats, lots of treats, give your dog treats any time it does what you want it to do. Use those treats if a puppy is scared of something. You can line treats up one right after another to get your puppy to walk forward and then have a jackpot treats at the end of trail by the “scary thing.” The use of treats makes scary things less scary because it is hard to be upset when “eating ice cream.” Good mood food sets a good mood.These basic steps to having fun, positive, early interactions for your puppy are going to help you lay the ground work for a good dog. We all want to have a dog that is friendly, easy to train, and is invited to come back often. The key to this is the socialization period. So arm yourselves, and I want to see you out with your puppies!Dr. Kathleen Babbitt owns Lima Animal Hospital. She is looking forward to the changes in behavioral medicine and treatment.

By Diane LarattaWe took Waldo on vacation with us this year. Waldo is our 7-year-old French Bulldog, and the love of my life. It had been four or five years since we last took him along on a trip, so he was long overdue for some R&R. The Canadian resort we were staying at for a week is pet friendly, so we got out Waldo's suitcase and began packing.The first thing I did for Waldo's upcoming trip was Google Canadian requirements for dogs crossing the border. At one time Canada only recognized yearly rabies vaccinations, but that policy has changed. However, I am a worry wart, so I made an appointment with my veterinarian to revaccinate Waldo for rabies despite the fact that he was vaccinated only 13 months earlier. With that out of the way, the next thing we had to plan for was his diet and bedding.Waldo will eat just about anything; consequently he's on a perpetual diet. Knowing from experience that many dogs go off their food when they're traveling, I selected some very special canned dog food to add to his premium kibble (nothing's too good for Waldo). Waldo's bedding was another matter. Waldo sleeps with me — on my pillow. Yes. He snores. But then so do I. The resort brochure welcomes pets, but advises that pets cannot be on the beds, must be crated when left in the cabin unattended, and that we had to pick up after our dog. The crate rule was not going to make Waldo a happy camper. He hadn't been in a crate since he was a wee pup. But, rules are rules. I dusted off a crate, pulled out some thick, fluffy bedding and tried to explain to my watchful dog that this was temporary. The day arrived for our journey to Canada. I am a big believer that a dog should be restrained in a car — either in a crate or in a car harness. I've heard horror tales of people getting in an accident, the car doors popping open, and the family pet getting out of the car and hit on the road. However, we are talking about Waldo here. He perches on a pillow between the driver and passenger seats so he doesn't miss anything. He always rides that way, and I suppose he always will. At the US/Canadian border, we supplied Waldo's certificate of health and proof of rabies. I don't think the border guard even looked at it. We were motioned through the gates without incident.Waldo had a blast at the resort. It seemed that every guest brought along their dog! Waldo met a Weimaraner, two Brittney spaniels, a Papillion, a Labrador Retriever, a Bernese Mountain Dog, a Poodle, and even another French Bulldog! The Lab and Spaniels rarely came out of the water. They were in dog heaven! The owner of the spaniels got to the point that he simply opened the door to his cabin, let the dogs out, and watched them race to the lake while he sat on the porch enjoying an adult beverage. So much for the leash rule.Waldo can't swim. French bulldogs are not built for swimming. They sink like rocks. So Waldo walked on the beach and gazed out at the lake, but he was wise enough to know that he shouldn't go in the water. He did, however, thoroughly enjoy the two-mile walk down the road every morning. So many smells to consider. As expected, Waldo went off his food the first couple days. By day three, he was hungry and ate a hearty breakfast. His appetite was on and off during the entire week, but nothing to make me worry.We tried to abide by the “no bed” rule, but by the middle of our vacation, Waldo was sleeping with me. Now I know why the resort charges extra for pets. We did, however, crate Waldo whenever we left him in the cabin unsupervised. It was really more for Waldo's safety than anything else. We didn't want him slipping out the door when the housekeeper came in each day.We thoroughly enjoyed traveling with Waldo. He doesn't get car sick. He doesn't bounce around or bark. He is a quiet, pleasant companion. If you're planning to travel with your dog, I would advise that you make sure it's crate trained, knows how to ride quietly in the car, and that your destination is pet friendly. With all that in place, you'll have a great time.Diane Laratta is the owner/operator of Hollowell Dog Training in Elida. Questions about dog behavior and/or training may be emailed to her at larattad@wcoil.com.

I wasn’t completely honest in my Mother’s Day column about the orphan lambs. Three significant players were deliberately left out.Apparently, some readers think my stories are too sad. At least that’s the feedback I get. That particular column wasn’t a sad one, although mention of those lambs might have taken it that direction. Still, their story deserves to be told. Pam had her twin boys on a Friday night, uneventfully, except that there was more vaginal bleeding than normal. The next morning I found her down and unable to rise, but her gums were a normal pink color. Occasionally, a ewe will develop milk fever, a common condition of dairy cows. Pam was treated for that, but an hour later she was gone.Bad things rarely happen at a good time, and this was no exception. Lambing season this year overlapped both Dr. Sara’s and Dr. April’s maternity leaves, so it was a bit stressful at times; Saturdays and Tuesdays were the worst. Short on time, I left the lambs in the pen with the dead ewe. There was a chill in the air that March morning and she was, after all, still warm.As I was finishing my chores, another discovery was made — a little lamb alone in a corner, cold and depressed, with the unmistakable look that she was thinking of leaving the living world.She was the victim of one of those “squirrelly” ewes I wrote about, number 850. This ewe loved one of her lambs, but only tolerated the other. If the loved lamb was nursing, the second lamb could steal some, but never was she allowed to nurse by herself. Even more heartbreaking, the little lamb was never allowed to lay by her mother. She sometimes rested by her sister, but more often than not, had to sleep by herself.This lamb was watched closely for the first few days after her family was turned out with the flock, and I thought she was doing OK. Evidently, I was wrong. Now out of time, I put her in the pen with the boys and their dead mother, split a bottle between the three, and went to the office. Returning that afternoon, I found the boys still snuggled by their mom, along with their new sister. When I realized that this was the first time the little ewe lamb lay close to a mother, even a dead one, as a purveyor of sad, I have to say, that was a “lump in the throat” moment.After I removed the ewe, the lambs didn’t make a fuss. They went back to their warm spot and hunkered together against the cold. In spite of their shaky start, however, the lambs didn’t give up, formed new bonds and a new family, and survived. Contrary to what most think about sheep, these lambs had a real will to live. I had a feeling I would write about them. I just didn’t know how or when.During the recent Allen County Fair, I had a chance to visit with a young man who truly exemplifies the word “courage.” His name is Andy Kennedy.I have known Andy and his family for several years. They raise sheep on their farm south of Lima, and Andy helped me show my sheep at one of our first fairs.We were watching the Born and Raised in Allen County Market Lamb Show, and several lambs that Andy raised were in the show and doing extremely well. During our lively discussion about the lambs — I thought they looked nice, Andy was a bit of a critic — I accidentally bumped one of his levers. Andy, you see, uses a wheelchair. Nearly six years ago at the age of 17, he was seriously injured in a truck accident. Facing a devastating adversity that most people fear, like the lambs, Andy didn’t give up, but fought back and triumphed. He continues to help with the family sheep, was a superintendent in the sheep department at the fair, and recently received a degree in accounting.Surprisingly, Andy expressed some reservation about his career choice. “What would you rather be?” I asked.“A math teacher,” Andy replied.“Then be a math teacher,” I replied somewhat cavalierly. Of course, I knew it wouldn’t be that easy, plus the thought of more education at this time seemed daunting to Andy. “Substitute!” I countered.If that is what he really wants to do, if I were a school superintendent, I would hire Andy Kennedy every day I could. He’ll not only teach the kids about math, he’ll teach them much, much more about life. He’s already done that for me.Dr. John H. Jones operates a mixed animal practice in Delphos with his wife, Dr. Bonnie Jones.

It happened when I wasn't looking. I woke up one morning and Dhugal, my perpetually youthful Airedale Terrier, was an old dog. This is a dog that is full of enthusiasm, living every moment to its fullest. I was aware of his chronological age; I just didn't think he'd ever act it. Dhugal is pretty healthy except for a significant heart murmur. He used to practically turn cartwheels when it was time for his daily run around the hayfield, but now I find that on these hot days he would rather find a cool spot in the house where he can lie down and meditate. He's also lost his old rock-hard physique and put on a bit of weight, but haven't we all.One thing that annoys the heck out of me is the hysterical fit he has whenever he spots a cat or other animal from the sunroom windows. The biggest insult to his terrier sensibilities is seeing a great blue heron on the pond. Ever the hunting dog, even if it's all in his mind, he isn't going to let these giant birds go unannounced. Lately I've actually seen him choose to ignore at least the less exciting visiting critters.Dhugal has always been the dominant dog in the household, but second-in-rank Barney the Shih Tzu has been intensifying his efforts to take over as alpha dog recently. That's just not going to happen while my good old Goobie Dog is still here. Dhugal has always been pretty tolerant of my two Shih Tzu boys and my Lab mix. But Barney may push him a bit too hard some day, so I have to keep a close eye on their interactions.Dhugal came to me as a surprise gift 10 years ago. Friends and I flew up to Edmonton to see and evaluate his litter. My friends owned the sire of the puppies, and I was accompanying them to do puppy aptitude testing. They made the show picks, and I ran a series of tests on all of the pups determining which would be likely to excel in hunting, obedience trials, agility or other performance fields. Dhugal was my personal favorite. That was a memorable time for both good and horrible reasons. The good was obvious — Dhugal. The bad was the timing. Our flight to Canada had been scheduled for Sept. 12, 2001. The terrible events of Sept. 11 made that impossible. We were finally able to fly up to Canada a week later. In fact, we were on the first flight out of Cincinnati airport after the skies had been reopened. The tragic events brought out the best in many people. Airport workers and the flight crew treated the few passengers on that flight like first-class royalty. The Canadians greeted us with heartfelt sorrow over the terrorist attacks and a warm welcome.A month later Dhugal was sent to me and our life together began. He took to obedience and field training easily, but after a while he began to show signs of gunshyness. That ended his future as a hunting Airedale, but that was OK with me. His retriever training has been put to good use — he loves to pick up and carry plastic water bottles to my recycling bins and to retrieve socks from the floor and things from the pond. Whenever he caught rabbits that stupidly wandered into range, he would promptly retrieve them to me. Not my idea of a great gift, but it was sure better than having him run off to crunch on the things! Dhugal was also considered to be one of the picks for a career as a show dog, but his curled tail, reminiscent of the tail on an Elsie the Cow creamer, kept him out of the show ring. That was OK, too. Nobody will ever be able to convince me he isn't an extremely handsome dog.I used to fantasize about Dhugal acting more mature and about how much easier things would be in my home if he were a bit more sedate, but now that he's settled into the role of canine senior citizen I don't think I'm ready for him to be on the downhill side of life. I'll continue to treasure my time with him and try to be patient with his occasional outbursts of over-enthusiasm because I know how much I'll miss him when he's gone.You're a good boy, Goobie.Dorothy Miner is a long-time dog trainer, obedience and tracking instructor and judge of canine events. She is a published author and contributes regular columns to several dog publications. Dorothy currently teaches at the Hollowell Academy of Dog Training and, along with Diane Laratta, teaches weekly classes for the Allen Correctional Institution's PETS Program.

Dr. April ShattuckThis time of year families are increasingly active and spending more time outdoors enjoying all that summer has to offer. With this comes the chance of encountering wildlife and potentially wildlife orphans. Most people are good-hearted and want to help these little creatures by rescuing them, raising them as pets or attempting to re-release them into the wild. Before you decide to bring those adorable critters into your home, there are a few things you should know.Native wildlife are protected, and therefore illegal to possess unless you have a permit from the Division of Wildlife. Wildlife may only be purchased from a legal propagator who has a license to breed these animals in captivity and can confirm that they are free of diseases. These laws are in place for your safety as well as that of the animals.Not only is it illegal to bring these animals into your home, they are extremely difficult to care for. I remember when I was a teenager, running over a nest of wild rabbits with the riding lawn mower. After the guilt subsided, our family felt obligated to care for the four younglings. Despite our best efforts, all but one died, most likely due to the stress of handling and inappropriate care.Looking back, we did a huge disservice to those little rabbits by not leaving them alone. The best option would have been to move the baby rabbits to a safer, hidden area on our property. Despite moving the nest and leaving our scent on them, the mother rabbit would have returned to feed them in the evening. Wildlife parents are devoted to their young and rarely abandon them, unless the parent is injured or dead. The lonely fawn hidden in the grass, the single gosling in the pond, or the baby bird fallen out of the tree are not necessarily abandoned. Doe leave their fawns hidden to protect them, geese will return if a gosling straggles behind, and a mother bird will still feed a fledgling on the ground. Unless you notice the animal is injured with a broken wing or leg, or has a wound or is bleeding, please leave these animals alone.By handling these animals, you also put yourself at risk of the diseases they may carry. Rabies is a serious, real threat in Ohio that can affect any mammal, including people and domestic pets. Raccoons, skunks and bats are the most common wildlife to carry and transmit rabies in Ohio. If you notice an animal acting strangely (confused, aggression without provocation, or wandering during the day), these animals may be sick and should not be handled. Call the Sherriff's office where they will have an updated list of nuisance trappers in your county. Raccoons commonly carry an intestinal roundworm called Baylisascaris procyonis. These worms are transferrable to humans, especially children, where it may cause blindness, central nervous system damage and death. Other diseases wildlife may carry are distemper, leptospirosis, salmonella, cryptosporidium, in addition to ticks and fleas. All of these diseases and parasites are very dangerous to you and your pets. There are ways you can prevent orphaning wildlife. Control and leash your pets so they do not attack wild animals. Educate your children to respect wildlife, leaving them in their habitat and not harassing them. Check trees and brush for nests before cutting them down. Cover chimneys, window wells and vents to prevent animals from nesting there. Lastly, exercise caution when driving, especially at dawn and dusk. If you find an injured wild animal or know for a fact that an animal has been orphaned, contact the Allen County Wildlife Officer, Craig Barr, at 419-429-8379. If possible, do not handle the animal to prevent injury to yourself and to avoid stressing the animal. If you must move the animal to a safer spot, wear gloves and place it in a warm, dark area until the animal can be transferred to the custody of a wildlife rehabilitator. Do not plan on raising these orphans on your own. Wild animals require special care and feeding that is beyond what the average household is capable of providing. Only a licensed wildlife rehabilitator can legally care for native wildlife animals. Leave it to the professionals to decide what the best course of action should be for the animal, which may not include any human involvement. Humans should always be considered a young wild animal's last hope for survival, not its best hope. List of wildlife rehabilitatorsCathy Heistand — reptiles and amphibians, 419-339-1188Laura Daggerhart — orphan squirrels and rabbits only, 513-875-3433Elizabeth Ross — endangered birds of prey, 937-767-7648Nancy Mabrey — neonate (newborn) mammals, 419-673-1977Kelly Rowland — mammals only, 419-509-8283Dr. April Shattuck works part-time at Delphos Animal Hospital.

Chad HigginsIt is time for my annual headache as I try to decide which of the many good flea products to carry and recommend for my patients. Some of the older products definitely don’t work as well as newer products. Any product that works to kill adult fleas will eventually not work as well. Fleas, like all other insects, know how to adapt. Any insecticide used year after year will eventually produce a population of insects resistant to it. A recent example would be Frontline, which for many years was a great flea product. A couple of years ago I had several clients using it that developed a severe flea problem. Any insecticide that kills adult fleas will eventually produce fleas that are resistant to it. As I was working on trying to decide which flea products to carry and recommend, I was reminded of an “old” product that has been around for many years. It works just as well as it always has because it is extremely unlikely fleas will become resistant to it. I have stressed repeatedly that fleas can develop resistance to any product that kills adult fleas. This older product doesn’t kill adult fleas.Sentinel is a monthly pill for dogs that contains two products. Milbemycin oxime works great as a heartworm prevention, but also controls roundworms, hookworms, and whipworms. The other product is lufenuron which suppresses flea populations by breaking their reproductive cycles. This is why it would be extremely hard to develop resistance to it. If it stops reproduction, fleas can’t be produced that are resistant to it. Lufenuron breaks the flea life cycle at a couple of different points. It only needs to break the life cycle at one point to prevent a flea infestation, but the fact that it breaks the life cycle at two points makes it extremely effective to treat an environment already infected.Lufenuron works by inhibiting the development of chitin. Chitin is the hard, crunchy, outer, protective covering of insects. When you give your dog Sentinel monthly to prevent a flea problem, it works by making certain that if a flea gets on your dog it can’t reproduce. In order to reproduce a flea must take a blood meal which will contain the lufenuron. Eggs can be produced and fall off the dog into the environment, but that is where the cycle stops. In order for the larvae to get out of the eggs they need to use an egg tooth to break through the shell. It just so happens that the egg tooth is normally made of chitin. No chitin means no egg tooth. Eventually the egg just dies. If you already have a flea infestation, it isn’t too late for Sentinel. Using Sentinel along with a product to kill adult fleas is the fastest way to get the problem under control. Studies show that even in severe flea infestations, use of Sentinel monthly along with a product to kill the adult fleas will control the situation within eight weeks. Sentinel not only will prevent any newly produced eggs from hatching as described previously, but it also kills the larval stage of the flea. The larvae must feed on the dried blood (flea dirt) fleas produce when they get on a dog, and this dried blood contains lufenuron. The larvae are covered in chitin for protection and when they can no longer produce it, they die. So in infestations, where eggs and larvae make up 85 percent of the total flea infestation, Sentinel will stop all of these future fleas from becoming adults and reproducing.Using Sentinel for flea control is 100 percent effective at preventing a flea infestation. Although a dog may pick up some “hitchhiker” fleas, your home will be protected from an infestation and you can control the “hitchhikers” with an occasional dose of one of the many products that kill adult fleas. Using these products only when needed will also make it much harder for fleas to develop resistance to them. Sentinel is also less expensive than the other flea products, especially when you take into account that you don’t need to buy heartworm prevention since it is included in the Sentinel.For all of the cat owners out there who feel left out, lufenuron is available for cats in an injection called Program that lasts for six months. Although it doesn’t protect against heartworms and intestinal parasites like some of the other cat flea products, it will prevent a flea infested house. Ask your veterinarian about Sentinel for dogs and Program for cats. They are two oldies, but goodies.Chad Higgins has owned Amanda Animal Hospital for the past 14 years. He sees dogs, cats, ferrets and other little furry critters.

Diane LarattaSusie was teaching her new puppy to sit on command. Using a tiny treat, she showed it to the puppy, and then slowly raised it just above the puppy’s head. When the puppy looked up to follow the treat, his butt went down and he went into a sit. Susie said the word “sit” as the puppy’s bottom settled into a sit and rewarded the puppy with a treat. After a couple days, Susie said the word “sit” and the puppy promptly went into a sit! It tickled Susie so much that she wanted to show off the puppy’s new command to her husband. “Steve, come here. Bosco knows how to sit!” Suddenly Susie remembered that she had forgotten to praise Bosco for sitting. Susie looked down and said “Good boy, Bosco,” and she gave him a treat. Unfortunately for Susie, Bosco didn’t have a clue that he was being rewarded for sitting. Instead, Bosco thought he was being rewarded for scratching, because while Susie was calling her husband, Bosco had an itch and was busy scratching when Susie said “good boy.” Scratching was the last thing Bosco was doing when he was praised, so he connected the praise to the scratching. When training a dog, timing is everything! Great trainers praise and correct immediately. When the dog does something wrong, and they catch it in the act, they correct promptly. The correction may be verbal, “quiet” or “no bark” or it may be a spritz of water from a squirt bottle as they say, “no chew.” It might be a slight collar correction, “no bite.” But it’s done as the dog is in the midst of the unacceptable behavior — not 10 or 20 seconds afterwards. When the owner of a dog walks into a room, all too often he sees something the dog has destroyed ... a couch pillow or a pair of shoes. The deed was done 30 minutes earlier, but the angry owner feels he must let the dog know that it did something wrong. The owner might take the dog over to the debris and say, “Look what you did! Bad dog!” And the dog responds by hanging its head and lowering its tail. “See, he knows he did wrong,” exclaims the owner. Yes. The dog knows he is in trouble, but he has no clue why. What should the owner have done when he entered the room and saw the damage? The best thing would be to quietly clean it up and resolve not to leave the shoes on the floor or pillows on the couch until the dog was trained to leave them alone.The same rule applies to praising a dog. It has to be done immediately! Because as Susie found out when she praised Bosco, what you think you’re praising the dog for may be something totally different than what the dog thinks he’s getting rewarded for.Every interaction we have with our dog teaches it something. If we open the refrigerator and get out a slice of cheese to munch on and we give a piece to the dog, the next time we open the refrigerator the dog will be right there expecting a piece of cheese. When we’re in the vet’s office with our dog and he’s acting a little nervous, if we pet the dog to soothe its anxiety, we’re actually reinforcing its fears and making matters worse. Dogs don’t think about some things the way humans think about them.While we’re on the subject of training, remember that commands should be given once and if the dog doesn’t obey, the owner should reinforce. Never give a command you can’t reinforce. If you taught the dog to sit and you’re sure he knows what “sit” means, if he doesn’t sit when you give the command, you should put him in a sit — immediately. Not 10 or 20 seconds later. And if you’re in the habit of repeating commands, “Sit, sit, sit, Bosco, please sit,” the dog starts to understand that the command for sit is you saying it four or five times and probably raising your voice as you do it. In other words, you get what you train.Understanding how your dog thinks is very important to raising a great canine companion. Dog obedience classes can be very helpful to training and raising a good dog as good instructors explain the reasons behind your dog’s behavior.Diane Laratta has been actively involved in the sport of purebred dogs for over 35 years. She owns and operates The Hollowell Academy of Dog Training & Grooming. Questions concerning choosing a dog or about dog training/behavior may be sent to her at 201 E. Kiracofe, Elida, OH 45807 or emailed to larattad@wcoil.com.

As I consider the patients that I see in the course of a day, I am reminded that dermatology, the study of skin, is a significant portion of my career. In fact, skin is the largest organ of the body, making it appropriate for dermatology to be at the forefront of my work.

I will not claim to be the biggest George Carlin fan. But I do have one of his books. I am not exactly certain as to how I have one of his books, but I do. I think my mom gave it to me when I was in veterinary school. It was probably one of those "what do you get the smart-aleck college kid who thinks he knows everything?" kind of gifts. The title of the book is "Braindroppings," so I can understand her reasoning.

Many dog owners have a strong affection for the larger dog breeds. For some, the bigger the better is the rule. Besides having a higher grocery bill, large and giant breed dogs are unique in another way. Lima Police K-9 Officer Aron reminded me of this recently when he developed a life-threatening emergency one evening.